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Writer's pictureSara-Jane and Steve Gage

Skill Breakdown: Teaching your dog to settle

Does your dog have a 'Witching Hour?'

Do they get crazy zoomies or a burst in energy around the same time each night?

Want to learn how to teach your dog to be settled and calm indoors?

Read on!



One of the most common errors we dog owners make is assuming that our dogs need more exercise when they demonstrate chaotic energy or begin demonstrating more mouthy and impulsive behaviors, even though we are pretty confident that we have already satiated their physical and mental enrichment requirements.


While 'a tired dog is a good dog' is true to some degree, just like with toddlers, there is a balance in all things. An overtired dog or a dog who is unsure how-to self soothe can often look like a dog with energy to burn. The difference between the two is that while you can exercise many dogs to the end of the earth, you will be doing so in an unproductive and potentially even harmful way at a certain point. (Think overstressed joints, poor form, or more reckless behaviors when overtired for example.)



Dogs, like humans, have the ability to build physical endurance.

What we DON'T want to do is to accidently create more of an athlete by simply extending the length of our walks every day. Instead, we want to find a balance between offering opportunities for physical exercise, mental enrichment, and teaching and practicing self-soothing and settling behaviors.


You likely have noticed some dogs without an obvious "off" switch.

Think of working dogs like Malinois, German Shepards, Australian Cattle Dogs, Poodles, etc. These sorts of breeds are bred to work 14-16 hour days, usually of high intensity physical and mental work, and yet they still require training an "off switch" to indicate when work is done and it is time to rest.


Some ways to teach an Off Switch/ How to Settle:


Create a "Doggy Spa Space"

This may be a crate, a closet, a small bathroom, a small extra room, a space under a staircase, a play pen, or wherever else makes sense in your home that is ONLY your dogs space. This space should be somewhere your dog can choose to come and go from on their own as they desire and can also be used when needing them to settle and be somewhere puppy proof and safe.

Some tips for creating your Doggy Spa Space:

  • Consider making it a den like place as most dogs enjoy feeling cozy and secure. (Note: all dogs are individuals. It's your job to notice your dog's personal preferences. That is why there are several options listed for spa spaces! Your goal is to meet your dog where they are as a unique individual in order to set them up for success.)

  • Add a box fan/ sound screen/ quiet classical, reggae, or lofi beats music- all of these sound options can not only block external noise, creating a calmer space, but the pairing of a particular sound with the time to settle can trigger a chemical release in our dog's brain to help them settle in more easily once this behavior is trained.

  • Use dog safe soothing smells to help them settle more easily.

    Similar to pairing their settling space with a particular audio or lighting that indicates it is time to settle in, using something like an Adaptil plug in or dog safe essential oils in a humidifier can help them settle easier.

  • Have a consistent routine to indicate it is time to settle.

    For example, when it is time for Penny to settle in for a rest, I close the blinds and curtains, turn up the sound screen and the fan, and ensure all other appliances are off. By having a consistent routine, she can begin to anticipate what is coming next and her body and brain have an opportunity to help her begin to settle in for a rest.



Crate Training:

Crate training, or having a dedicated "doggy spa room" space that your dog can go that indicates it is time to rest can be extremely helpful to teach settling behaviors.

It is important to make sure that your dog's crate/ play pen/ doggy spa is a place of quiet and only calming/ soothing activities are done there, such as enjoying a lick mat or snuffle mat, resting, or sleeping. Crates/ play pens/ doggy spa spaces are NOT meant to be used in a punitive way or for punishment as we want our dogs to enjoy going there and psychologically have the ability to be calm and settled in that space.


How to do it:

Begin with simple crate games, such as throwing a treat in for your dog to go find in the crate, and saying "Crate!" as they enter. The moment they have eaten the treat, give their release cue (our favorite for our Engaged Dogs is "Be Free!") and let them leave the crate before repeating 10-15 times.

As your dog gets comfortable with this game, add in closing the door for brief moments, working to gradually build up the duration of time they are comfortably in with the door closed.

You might also offer your dog a lick mat, a snuffle mat, or a special chew to enjoy in there (all soothing and calming activities for most dogs,) to create a positive association with the space.


Tether Training:

Tether training refers to tethering your dog to you or a location within your home to limit their options and access. Pair this with capturing and rewarding calm behaviors, and you are on your way to teaching your dog that settled behaviors are appreciated and rewarded!

How to do it:

Begin with tethering your dog to you via a waist leash OR tethering them to a place you would like them to settle.

Ensure they have access to a comfy place that encourages settling, like a bed, a blanket, or a towel.

Every time your dog offers calm behavior, (sitting, laying down, sighing and settling in,) quietly, evenly, and calmly as you can, praise them.

For some dogs, this may cause them to get up, and that's ok, simply wait for them to offer those calm behaviors again, and calmly praise or throw a small piece of treat to them.

Repeat often.


Teach a Place cue:

Choose a Place marker: a small blanket, a towel, a dog bed-

anything you can use as a comfy visual indicator to your dog of the expected behavior. (Perhaps consider if you would like this Place cue to be more easily generalized when choosing your Place marker. I use a small blanket with Penny which can be easily stored in a backpack for outings, though I do intend to get a small bathmat for this purpose in the future as I would prefer to have some grip on the bottom to prevent it moving about while she "Places.")


How to do it:

  • Lay out your chosen Place marker.

  • Using a Lure (a treat tucked into your thumb, against your palm, so that your dog can put their nose against your palm and lick/ sniff at the treat, but not access it until you deem it appropriate and release it from your thumb,) guide your dog on to the Place marker.

  • The moment all 4 of their paws are on the Place marker, say Yes! and release the treat.

  • Repeat 3-5 times before then having them lay down on the Place marker. If they know a Down already, this should be fairly easy by cuing them or luring them into it. If they don't know a Down yet, nbd, lure them in and hold the treat in a closed fit down on the blanket and give them time to work it out. They will eventually lay down, at which point you enthusiastically Mark YES!!! and release the treat to them. Repeat the luring into a Down on the Place marker 5-10 times.

  • After they appear to begin understanding that the preferred behavior is a Down on the marker, begin incorporating the "Place" cue. The moment your dogs 4 paws and belly hit the blanket in a Down this time, say Place! Yes! and release the treat to them.

  • Release them by saying "Be Free" and throwing a piece of kibble away to send them away from the Place marker so you can repeat this exercise.

  • Repeat 5-15 times.

  • Practice Place often, beginning in one, distraction free location within your home. You can then begin to help them generalize this cue by moving the marker, starting slowly at first. You might start by simply switching the orientation of the blanket, and ensuring your dog can Place there, before then moving it 2 feet to the right, and then moving it 3 feet to the left, or shifting it to a corner in the same room. Keep in mind: Dogs do not generalize well, and slow is fast in dog training, so we want to take this in very small steps to give them a solid foundation in order to make future Place training easier.

  • Once your dog has Place down inside, begin generalizing it to outside.

  • You can read much more about generalizing your Place cue and teaching patio manners to your pup in this blog: Brunching with your Bestie. How to set Fido up for success while brunching around SWDC (choosetoliveengaged.com)


Implementing limitations to set your dog up for success:

Using things like baby gates, crates, play pens, tethers, waist leashes, teaching physical space boundaries can all be extremely helpful to set our dogs up for success.

Many humans often feel bad about providing limitations for their dogs, but similar to children, (and most humans really,) by having limitations, it makes it easier for them to be successful. Example:

Your dog has access to the entire house, even though they often have accidents on carpeting. You have carpets in multiple rooms. By limiting their access to a dog safe room with tile OR only allowing them in a room with you present and able to watch their behaviors, this sets them up for success and decreases the likelihood of reheasing behaviors we do NOT want to see repeated. Remember: the more a behavior is repeated and/ or rewarded, the more likely it is that you will continue to see that behavior in the future.


Do NOT wait for your dog to mess up!!


Set them up for success as often as possible by communicating clear expectations through routines, providing limitations, verbal and nonverbal communication including marking and rewarding preferred behaviors as often as possible so that your dog understands when they are on the right track.



Capturing and rewarding calm behaviors:

Aim to capture and reward calm behaviors your dog is naturally offering as often as possible. You can make this easier to do by keeping treats and/or kibble in jars throughout your home and a few in your pocket or a treat bag at all times. Your goal is to always be looking for behaviors you like and want to see repeated that you can mark and reward those as often as possible. Keep in mind, the more we do of this up front to set a really solid foundation and to communicate clearly, the less management we will have to do in the long run.


Capturing and rewarding calm behaviors your dog is naturally offering looks like:

  • seeing your dog visibly struggle with keeping "4 on the floor" and praising them while they are doing a good job (versus waiting for them to jump up and then having to redirect!)

  • your dog sits themselves down or lays down, without being asked

  • your dog looks to a distraction, like a squirrel, other dog, or person, and chooses to look back to you

  • your dog walks calmly by any one else- 4 legged or 2 legged or chooses to check in with you, instead of engaging with them

  • your dog removes themselves to their doggy spa space or Place marker

  • noticing, praising and rewarding whenever your dog manages their impulses. This looks different for each dog. Example: Penny leaves a squirrel alone after looking to it and then to me, I will praise and reward heavily because I know that is a challenging choice for her to make.


Some Tips to set you and Fido up for success in settling:

By practicing settling at the same time, in the same location, and/or with the same routine, this can increase your dog's likelihood of success and accelerate their progress. Routine and consistency allow for quick and effective learning, so consider if you have an activity in your day where you can practice with your dog.

Example: Every morning when I sit at my computer to check my emails, I will practice tether training and rewarding settling behaviors with my dog for 10-20 minutes.


Remember that emotional contagion (the idea that energy (emotions in motion) is contagious) is a very real thing, proven by science. While we are not entirely responsible for our dog's emotions and moods,

we DO have a very large impact on them, by how we show up and are feeling, by the training and skills we provide, by providing the opportunities to practice their skills and emotional regulation, and the guidance and communication we provide.


Have you ever tried to meditate?

Or to simply sit, without being on your phone for

a period, and to be really mindful of the world around you?

For many humans, and their dogs too, mediating, slowing down, being present, feeling settled and calm, can be challenging and requires the opportunities to learn and practice these skills often. If you are unable to be still and calm, it is extraordinarily unlikely that your dog will be able to.


However, if instead you can teach them skills to settle, alongside giving opportunities to practice emotion regulation skills, while learning that calm behaviors are rewarded, it is likely you will have a dog who can go many places and be able to settle. One of the most important exercises you can do with your dog to teach calm, neutral behavior in your neighborhood and beyond is by doing Stationary Work. Stationary Work refers to choosing a low distraction environment to allow your dog to begin learning and practicing being neutral around distractions. You can read more about what it is, how to do it, and the extensive benefits here:




So how do you know the difference between when your dog requires more exercise or enrichment versus they need some help in settling in for a nap?


While every dog is an individual, made up their own unique LEGS (Learning, Environment, Genetics, Self- from Kim Brophy's 'Meet Your Dog' linked below.)

Ask yourself if their needs have been met. For most dogs this includes:

  • Adequate physical exercise

  • Mental Enrichment

  • Eaten/ drank water

  • Used the bathroom recently

If you can confidently check all of these boxes and your dog is continuing to demonstrate chaotic energy, excessive zoomies, nipping/ mouthing/ chewing/ being destructive, etc. It is time to help them settle!!


Recent research indicates that most puppies require 14-20 hours of quality rest

every day, while adult dogs require 12-20 hours. By teaching settling skills, we can help our dogs get adequate, quality rest and live a more balanced life, for their benefit, and ours.


Have questions about what you've learned? Comment or reach out via email!

Want to learn more skill breakdowns like this? Follow us on social media:

@Engaged_Dogs





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